Installation Outline and Product Review
(click for larger image)
|
|
From Contender54
OVERALL THOUGHTS AND IMPRESSIONS
|
A big thank you goes to Jason B. for arranging the Tuff Country Giveaway. The new kit was a catalyst in the massive effort it took to get the Jeep running after a 3 year hiatus.
The install of the Tuff Country parts was relatively straight-forward. My particular installation took a bit longer than expected because it involved a rear axle swap at the same time. Regardless, the basic steps are still the same.
You will note that I did not take "before and after" measurements of the vehicle height. This is due to the fact that the Jeep already had a stiff riding, 4" suspension kit on it. The Tuff-Country kit rides and flexes MUCH better than the competitor’s kit.
Upon arrival, the kit was very complete, except for the instructions, and the two bolts for the rear shackles. A short drive to the hardware store solved that problem. When I ran into issues concerning the rear U-bolts (axle swap), Jaysn Davis at Tuff Country was very helpful.
|
REQUIRED TOOLS AND MATERIALS
4 jack stands
2 floor jacks
White lithium grease
Multiple sockets
Multiple box wrenches
Dead-blow hammer
Center punch
Optional
Impact Wrench! (only for removal purposes, not for installation)
PARTS INCLUDED
8 U-bolts (including hardened nuts and washers)
6 Transfer case drop sleeves
6 Transfer case drop bolts
1 brakeline extension
2 four degree axle shims
FRONT SUSPENSION
|
1) Place chocks behind the rear wheels and break the lug nuts. Lift the front of the vehicle, use jack stands to support the frame, and remove the tires. Now is a good time to remove the old shocks as well.
2) 2. Use the floor jack to lift the front axle just enough to observe movement. This allows the sway-bar to be disconnected from the tie-plates.
|
(click for larger image)
|
3) Remove the driver’s side U-bolts from the axle. (This is where the impact wrench comes in handy.) After the U-bolts are removed, use the jack to lift the axle approximately two inches. Save the U-bolt tie plate for re-installation.
4) Remove the bolts from the shackle in the front of the spring, and the hanger in the rear. Note: the spring will fall to the ground if you are not careful. Remove the spring.
|
(click for larger image)
|
|
5) Locate the new Tuff Country front spring (the front springs are narrower than the rear) and carefully remove the bushings. Apply white lithium grease to the bushings and reinstall. After lubricating, install the new spring in the place of the old one. Having a buddy hold up one end of the spring really helps at this point. Reuse the stock spring bolts, but do not torque them down at this time.
|
(click for larger image)
|
|
6) Carefully lower the axle onto the new spring, ensuring that the centering pin lines up with the hole in the spring perch. I ran into problems here because the centering pin at the bottom of the leaf was too large for the hole in the U-bolt tie plate. Some machining of the tie plate took care of that. I’m told that Tuff Country addressed that issue. After the axle is properly set on the springs, install the new U-bolts, making sure to use the supplied washers. Torque the U-bolts to 85 pounds.
|
(click for larger image)
|
|
7) Repeat the same steps for the passenger side, but be sure to note the existence of a wider U-bolt. This is the inner of the passenger side U-bolts. It is larger because it needs to clear the edge of the differential.
|
(click for larger image)
(click for larger image)
|
8) Upon completion of the passenger side, install the shocks, sway bar, and rims and tires.
9) Safely lower the vehicle and ensure that the spring eye bolt on the shackles are torqued to 25 pounds, and the spring hanger bolts at the rear of the shackle to 80 pounds.
|
(click for larger image)
|
REAR SUSPENSION
|
1) Place chocks in front of the front tires to ensure that the vehicle cannot roll. Lift the rear of the Jeep and support the frame with jack stands. I place mine directly in front of the spring hangers. Remove the rims and tires at this time.
2) 2. Once again, position the jack under the axle and raise the jack until it comes in contact with the rear axle housing.
|
(click for larger image)
|
3) As with any vehicle, it is wise to only disassemble one side at a time. We started with the driver’s side by removing the U-bolts (impact wrench territory) and shocks. Save the tie-plate, as it will be reinstalled. Slowly use the jack to raise the axle approximately two inches in order to ensure that the spring no longer supports it.
4) Remove the bolts from the hanger at the front of the spring and safely lower it to the ground. Next, remove the bolt from the shackle at the rear of the spring and slide the spring from under the vehicle.
|
(click for larger image)
|
5) Remove the bushings from the new Tuff-Country spring and apply white lithium grease and re-install. This increases the life of the bushing and is an effort to prevent squeaking. Install the new springs and use the stock bolts. The bolts should only be hand tightened at this point.
6) Lower the axle onto the spring in such a manner that the centering pins properly align with the spring perches. Install the new U-bolts, using the supplied nuts and washers, in conjunction with the stock tie-plates. Torque the U-bolts to 85 pounds.
7) Repeat for the passenger side.
8) Upon completion of both sides, install the rear shocks, and the rims/tires.
9) Lower the vehicle to the ground and torque the spring hanger to 80 pounds, and the spring eye bolt to 25 pounds.
|
(click for larger image)
|
IMAGES
(click for larger image)
|
|
|
Tuff Country EZ-Ride Suspension was incorporated over 15 years ago realizing the desperate need for quality suspension products in the after market world. As well as supplying the 4WD enthusiast with the best quality, Tuff Country EZ-Ride Suspension also offers you the most competitive price structure in the industry.
|
 |
|
|
Sponsors -
Legal -
Privacy Policy -
Contact Us -
Advertising Info
|
All Rights Reserved, ©PavementSucks.com, a division of OHVhost.com
|
Last modified:
March 07, 2005 |
PavementSucks.com
P.O. Box 579717
Modesto, CA 95357-9717
|
Page Loaded in
0.008962 sec.
|
PavementSucks.com is not affiliated with any OEM or aftermarket vehicle or component manufacturers such as Dodge, Chevy, Ford, Toyota, International, Jeep, Chrysler, Kia, Mitsubishi, Nissan, Mercedes, Land Rover or Hummer, nor any of their specific vehciles be it four wheel drive, 4x4, offroad, four-wheel drive, 4WD, all wheel or all-wheel drive, or AWD. Any technical information provided herein is informational only and does not necessarily represent actual procedures, specifications or techniques required to perform any maintenance or modifications on body lifts, lift kits, suspension, engine or motor modifications, emissions, mounting or dismounting tires, roll cages, exo cages, winches, bumpers, body work, axle or drivetrain, transfer case, transmission, driveshaft, chassis or frame components, electronics, stereo, head units, amplifiers, speakers, speaker boxes, speaker box carpet, speaker wires, power wires, batteries, alternators, power inverters or converters. PavementSucks.com makes no claim to the application of any content herein to the sport or hobby of rock crawling, mud bog, four wheel driving, trail riding, mud racing, rock racing, competition, 4wheeling, offroading, snow wheeling, street driving, mall crawling, urban wheeling, camping, boating, towing, trailering, RV use, or hauling personal watercraft. PavementSucks.com makes no claim to the safety or correctness of parts, components, assembly or assemblies, methods and procedures mentioned within the site. PavementSucks.com recommends using proper repair manuals, owners manual, instructions, guides, tools and procedures for all work represented herein.
|
|
|
