|
REQUIRED TOOLS
|
MATERIALS
(Check manual for types, amounts and applicability)
|
TIME
|
Torque Wrench
Tools for Hub and Carrier Removal
(see Hub and Seal Repl Articles)
Long Center Punch
Mid-Weight Grease
Small Flat Screwdriver
|
RTV Sealant
Gear Oil
Thread Locker
|
1/2 - 1 hour for actual locker install in carrier
|
Next>>
This is a fairly easy install, once the carrier is out. See the Axle Seal Replacement Tech Article for instructions regarding removing the carrier from the differential housing. Keep the bearing races oriented with the correct side of the carrier.
Take note of the roll-pin holding the cross-pin in place. You will be removing this pin later.
The Dana 44 carrier setup is of an interference design. That means you need to remove the ring gear, regardless of gear ratio, in order to remove the cross-pin. The cross-pin is what holds the spider gears in place. Carefully place the carrier in a vise and be sure that you do not get the bearings between the jaws. With my vise, I had enough room to grab the carrier itself and just cleared the bearings by 1/4". Clean part of the carrier and ring gear edge and place a mark across the two with a good marker so that you can seat the ring gear back in the same position. I used an impact wrench to break the ring gear bolts loose. If you do not have air, these should take some effort to remove as they have thread locker on them.
Once all the ring gear bolts have been removed, use a screwdriver between the ring gear bevel and carrier flange and twist. I suggest padding the top of the vise so that the falling ring gear will not be damaged. I had some small cardboard boxes that I used. Remove from vise.
Next>>
|
 |
|
|
Sponsors -
Legal -
Privacy Policy -
Contact Us -
Advertising Info
|
All Rights Reserved, ©PavementSucks.com, a division of OHVhost.com
|
Last modified:
February 24, 2004 |
PavementSucks.com
P.O. Box 579717
Modesto, CA 95357-9717
|
Page Loaded in
0.025301 sec.
|
PavementSucks.com is not affiliated with any OEM or aftermarket vehicle or component manufacturers such as Dodge, Chevy, Ford, Toyota, International, Jeep, Chrysler, Kia, Mitsubishi, Nissan, Mercedes, Land Rover or Hummer, nor any of their specific vehciles be it four wheel drive, 4x4, offroad, four-wheel drive, 4WD, all wheel or all-wheel drive, or AWD. Any technical information provided herein is informational only and does not necessarily represent actual procedures, specifications or techniques required to perform any maintenance or modifications on body lifts, lift kits, suspension, engine or motor modifications, emissions, mounting or dismounting tires, roll cages, exo cages, winches, bumpers, body work, axle or drivetrain, transfer case, transmission, driveshaft, chassis or frame components, electronics, stereo, head units, amplifiers, speakers, speaker boxes, speaker box carpet, speaker wires, power wires, batteries, alternators, power inverters or converters. PavementSucks.com makes no claim to the application of any content herein to the sport or hobby of rock crawling, mud bog, four wheel driving, trail riding, mud racing, rock racing, competition, 4wheeling, offroading, snow wheeling, street driving, mall crawling, urban wheeling, camping, boating, towing, trailering, RV use, or hauling personal watercraft. PavementSucks.com makes no claim to the safety or correctness of parts, components, assembly or assemblies, methods and procedures mentioned within the site. PavementSucks.com recommends using proper repair manuals, owners manual, instructions, guides, tools and procedures for all work represented herein.
|
|
|
