Home - eStore - Video - Rides - Forums - Clubs - Album - Tech - Projects - Showcase - Chat - Links - FAQ
You are not logged in.
.:Login:.
.:Register:.
 

MSD 6A AND BLASTER COIL INSTALL

REQUIRED TOOLS
MATERIALS
(Check manual for types, amounts and applicability)
TIME
Screwdriver
Drill and Bits
Wire Stripper
Soldering Iron
Wire Crimpers
Trim Rivets
Electrical Tape
Zip Tes
Wire Convolute/Loom
1 Hours

My Check Engine light came on and gave a code indicating a problem with the coil. After testing the coil and realizing that it was way out of spec, I decided to replace it with a High Vibration Blaster coil from MSD. While I was at it, I decided to pick up a MSD 6A Ignition System. The 6A system will fire a spark plug multiple times rather than the factory single ignition. This will help provide a more complete combustion of the fuel for better fuel economy, better throttle response, more power over all RPMs and smoother idle. The Blaster coil outputs more energy and more voltage to the plugs so you get even better firing. Both components can be used individually as well.

Parts list:

Part Name
Part Number
Comments
MSD 6A
6200
Any 6 Series will work, this is the base model
MSD High Vibration
Blaster Coil
8222
Any Blaster Coil will work, the Blaster 3 does not require use of adapter part 8805/84039
MSD Coil Bracket
8213
Any universal coil bracket will work.
MSD High Vibration Mounts
8823
Not required, but recommended unless using MSD 6 Off-road. Helps with mounting on uneven surfaces. Part # valid for 6 Series Controllers
MSD Power Tower Adapter
8805 or 84039
If HEI style terminal required, must for late model Rams with Blaster Coils, except Blaster 3. 8805 is pack of 9 adapters but only one needed. 84039 is single adapter with MSD 8.5mm SuperConductor replacement coil wire.

For late model V8 Dodge Rams, you do not need any additional parts. The instructions say that you may need a Tach Adapter, Pickup and some other items, but they are not required. Non-94+ Ram applications need to check with MSD for additional parts.

Installing 6A with factory coil:


MSD 6A with wiring harness and template I had to make.

I decided to mount the 6A on the drivers side fenderwell under the hood. Since I also needed to mount the new coil somewhere because the location of the factory coil does not facilitate the Blaster coil, I put it there also. First I had to remove the fenderwell liner.

Then, using a cardboard template, determined where the High Vibration Mounts needed to be located. The mounts are nearly 3/4" tall so they also helped me avoid a small hump right where the 6A was to be located. I drilled the first hole from the top to set the position.

Then I matched the template on the under side to the first hole I just made. Drilled the remaining holes from the bottom because the power distribution center would not let me keep the drill vertical so it kept slipping on the sheetmetal.

Once the holes where drilled and deburred, I attached the mounts using Loc-Tite.


Mounts installed awaiting 6A

Mount the 6A to the High Vibration Mounts and spread out your wires. You do not need any of the loose wiring provided with the 6A.

For late model V8 Dodge trucks, you simply need to splice the 6A in series with the factory coil trigger wires (Green/Grey and Grey). The Red/White 6A wires connect to the "computer" end of the coil trigger wires, while the Orange/Black wires connect to the coil itself. Then connect the 6A power and ground leads as required.

I decided to cut the coil trigger wires near the coil connector. I then soldered extensions to the "computer" end and wrapped it all in convolute and routed it back to the 6A along the cowl. I then soldered the coil connector to some wire, wrapped those and routed them with the "computer" end back to the 6A. The end of both sets of wires had male spades crimped on. This allowed the 6A to connect to the new extensions. Once connected, wrap everything in electrical tape. Also, if the 6A were to ever go out, I made a set of jumpers to connect the extensions to bypass the 6A.

Installing Blaster coil:

If you are installing a new Blaster Coil at the same time as the 6A, mount the coil bracket when you are mounting the 6A. I decided to mount the Blaster Coil on the same fenderwell near the 6A. The High Vibration Blaster Coil is fully potted so it can be mounted in any position unlike standard oil filled coils. Be sure the coil wire from the distributor can reach the coil as well as the Orange/Black wires from the 6A.

If your application requires HEI style terminals, install the Power Tower adapter if needed. If the 6A is connected to a factory coil, unplug the Orange/Black wires and reroute them to the Blaster Coil. You can leave the factory coil as a back up. Reroute the coil wire to the coil and you are done.

If you are not using a 6A and just installing a new Blaster Coil, you need to splice the coil trigger wires to route back to the new coil. If you want to keep the factory coil as a backup, then solder the "computer" end trigger wires, the factory coil connector and the wires to the new coil together. Unplug the factory coil, and connect the new coil to the new extensions and route the coil wire to the new coil. If the new coil fails, unplug the coil wire and trigger wires from the and coil, reroute the coil wire back to the factory coil and connect the factory connector back to the factory coil.


Installed MSD 6A and Blaster Coil. The white wires
are from another device.

MSD
TECH LINE: (915) 855-7123
msdtech@msdignition.com
http://www.msdignition.com

Promote your business on PavementSucks!

Sponsors - Legal - Privacy Policy - Contact Us - Advertising Info
All Rights Reserved, ©PavementSucks.com, a division of OHVhost.com

Last modified:
February 24, 2004
PavementSucks.com
P.O. Box 579717
Modesto, CA 95357-9717
Page Loaded in
0.023395 sec.

PavementSucks.com is not affiliated with any OEM or aftermarket vehicle or component manufacturers such as Dodge, Chevy, Ford, Toyota, International, Jeep, Chrysler, Kia, Mitsubishi, Nissan, Mercedes, Land Rover or Hummer, nor any of their specific vehciles be it four wheel drive, 4x4, offroad, four-wheel drive, 4WD, all wheel or all-wheel drive, or AWD. Any technical information provided herein is informational only and does not necessarily represent actual procedures, specifications or techniques required to perform any maintenance or modifications on body lifts, lift kits, suspension, engine or motor modifications, emissions, mounting or dismounting tires, roll cages, exo cages, winches, bumpers, body work, axle or drivetrain, transfer case, transmission, driveshaft, chassis or frame components, electronics, stereo, head units, amplifiers, speakers, speaker boxes, speaker box carpet, speaker wires, power wires, batteries, alternators, power inverters or converters. PavementSucks.com makes no claim to the application of any content herein to the sport or hobby of rock crawling, mud bog, four wheel driving, trail riding, mud racing, rock racing, competition, 4wheeling, offroading, snow wheeling, street driving, mall crawling, urban wheeling, camping, boating, towing, trailering, RV use, or hauling personal watercraft. PavementSucks.com makes no claim to the safety or correctness of parts, components, assembly or assemblies, methods and procedures mentioned within the site. PavementSucks.com recommends using proper repair manuals, owners manual, instructions, guides, tools and procedures for all work represented herein.


Outside Hub