JL AUDIO STEALTH BOX INSTALL

By jprtroy

If you’re like me, you like the tunes! Also you drive a Dodge! The JL Audio StealthBox sits in the middle of the cab and can blast out some serious bass!

To start the install, I removed the center seat section as a whole, console and seat. There are 4 bolts (13mm) to remove and save.

Next, you’ll need to remove the cloth seat cover. Mine, the cloth seat cover came off easily, by removing the plastic channels off of the rails they were hooked on

There should be 4 channels to remove (front, back, left & right sides)

Next, you need to remove the center consol.

there are two 13mm bolts on each side. Remove and save them. Then carefully remove the consol arms as to not tear the cloth seat cover. When the console is free, set it aside for a moment. Now, gently peel the cloth seat cover off.

Next, apply the cloth seat cover over the sub. I did this by turning the seat cover inside out, and rolling it on to the sub.

In picture 7 you can see the sub covered

if the seat cover isn’t tight, don’t worry, you get to take up slack later on.

Now it’s time to put the center consol back on. I ran into tiny problems here. The sub has indents for the consol arms, (with bolt holes) and in a perfect world, the arms would line up perfectly with mounting holes the first time. Mine didn’t! The fit between the arms and the sub, in my case, was such that with the seat cover material and the plastic sleeve on the consol arm, I was only able to get one side properly aligned and bolted down. The area that was taken up by the seat cover material and the sleeves effectively made the sub too wide! I fixed this problem by trimming the plastic sleeve (passenger side) up just enough to clear the sub enclosure, and trimming away some seat cover material. My seat cover, had sleeves for the consol arms to go through, these sleeves added thickness to the sub. I removed just enough material to allow both consol arms to align properly, then I bolted them down.

Anchoring the seat cover comes next. The instructions suggest you fold the plastic hooks under and then screw through both the seat cover material and the hooks into the holes provided. (on my last stealthbox install I could do that) I did fold the plastic hooks over, but I was unable to screw through the plastic as it was to small, (didn’t reach the provided holes) so I ran the provided screws through the seat cover into the provided holes

It’s during this step, you want to pull the seat cover tight, then anchor it. The sub comes with 8 screws.

Once the seat cover is anchored, it’s time to put the center seat combo back in! Use caution when lifting the new center seat section, as it’s much heavier now than before.

You’ll also want to use caution when lowering the sub enclosure onto the seat mounting posts. You really don’t want to RIP the sub up on one of the metal mounting posts! When you have the sub positioned (not ripped up) now is the time to connect some speaker wire to the sub’s connection or connect it to whatever amp you have. There is little room beneath the sub, so you may have to unbolt it later to add wire.

When you bolt it down, remember, you’re tightening into fiberglass and you can strip out the sub’s mounting. I don’t know what the torque spec is, just be careful when tightening.

Finished installation

This sub enclosure is not designed to be a seat. It is rather hard, the 1/2" padding it comes with is really not enough to be used as a seat. (instructions mention it’s not designed to be used as a seat) This isn’t a problem in my truck, as I have a back seat now, and with a 6sp tranny, no one would be sitting in the middle anyhow.

Any questions, please PM or e-mail.