318/360 TIMING CHAIN/WATER PUMP REPLACEMENT

Let me start with a special thanks to CaptNemo over at DTO.

Motor is original with 130,000 miles on it. During a tune-up, I checked the timing I found it was extremely advanced indicating stretch in the timing chain. After reviewing my Haynes manual for the steps, I decided I would replace the water pump (it was original also), the upper, lower and bypass hoses, and if you need it, you can do the thermostat while you are working this repair. Start by disconnecting the battery and thoroughly draining the coolant. I also recommend draining the oil as well.

Remove the drive belt. Remove the fan shroud and fan clutch as outlined in the Fan Clutch Replacement article.

THe Haynes manual says to mark the #1 cylinder location on the distributor body and then remove the cap. Using a large socket and breaker bar, turn the crank clockwise until the rotor is aligned with the mark you made on the distributor body. If you are going to be changing the timing chain, this step is not absolutely necessary as you can go through the disassembly and before removing the timing chain itself, you can turn the crank and align the timing marks that way.

This is basically all the items you will be removing. The fan shroud, fan clutch, crank pulley, vibration damper, power steering pump, alternator, A/C compressor, idler pulley, accessory bracket, water pump, cooling hoses, and timing chain cover.

Remove lower radiator hose. Unbolt heater hose return line. There is a tab holding the metal portion to the engine and also a small o-ring about 1/2" from the. If you are not replacing the water pump, do not damage this o-ring. If you have not replaced the water pump, I highly recommend that you do it at this time. A new pump is only $45-50 with a $7-10 core. A new water pump should come with a replacement o-ring.

Remove the water pump pulley if you are going to replace the pump. Most versions are the 4-bolt type, but there are some with a press-on pulley. Be sure to check the type prior to purchasing your new one.

Remove the power steering pump bracket from the engine and set it aside. You do not need to remove any hoses. There are two long bolts on the driver side, a short bolt on the pass side bottom and a bolt/stud on the upper pass side. This stud holds several ground wires. Remove the nut holding the wires, then you can use a deep socket to extract the stud.

Now you need to remove the alternator. This will also gain you access to the upper radiator hose clamp on the thermostat housing. While you are here, you will need to remove the oil dipstick hold down.

You can now completely remove the alternator. Once the alternator is loose, you will see which wire you need to remove in order to place the alternator back on the valve cover to get it out of the way. Please note the pics are a bit out of order since the Haynes manual left out several steps that I realized later.

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